Metal Lattice Fence Design

First determine the area where fence will be built, allow for necessary set back, property line, local code etc. Run string line to mark fence line and where posts will be located. Some important tools/materials needed include: Skill saw, quickcrete, level, drill, wood screws,tape measure, L-supports, cedar pickets, 4 x 4 posts, 2x4s, 1x2s, and cedar lattice.

Concrete in 4 x 4 posts along string line 8 feet apart. Keep in mind this Cedar fence is built from scratch, (if you plan to build from cedar lattice fence panels, then these guidelines can still be used, but install the panels according to manufacture instructions). Let posts set a while before continuing on, make sure they are level. Option is to use green treated posts, however cedar looks better and can be treated with sealer to make last a long time.

Next start with the 2x4's, the top will need to exceed 8 feet to cover the top of the posts, the next 2 x 4 will be anchored 1 foot below the top, screws and or L-supports can be used. The third
2 x4 is attached at the bottom about 2 inches from the ground.

Insert Cedar fence pickets along and centered between 2x4's. 1x2's ripped or if you can find a cedar trim to secure the pickets in place. Tighten as necessary and finish screwing on the trim.

The Cedar lattice is next, cut and install between top two 2x4's. Use same technique to center and use trim to hold in place. The cedar lattice should be no more than 12 inches tall, this allows you to cut 4 pieces from a 4x8 foot cedar lattice board. If gates are needed. Frame the cedar fence gate using same height measurements as fence but allow at least 1/2 inch gap for gate on each side for ease of opening gate. Use gate hinge/latch kit and install using instructions that come with the kit.

Last is to use a protector or water sealer for a long lasting and great appearance. This should be done yearly or so the natural cedar appearance is not lost and the cedar does not gray. A an example is Thompson's water seal that keeps the natural color, use a deck type sprayer which makes it easy to apply.

How often have you driven by "that" house in the neighborhood and seen the unsightly underside of the house. This is a place where even the bravest of souls would not dare venture in (unless you're a rodent or small animal). Then you think, "a little porch skirting is all those folks need".

In the older home - say 60+ years - there really was no such thing as lattice or lattice panels. Homeowners simply ignored the issue, and threw together some pieces of wood to make some semblance of an enclosure.

The first time you really saw porch skirting was when mobile homes come about. There was everything from the low cost metal skirting and wood to the higher end brick, and even faux stone surrounds. Each was used for one purpose: to cover the eyesore that was and is the wheels and jacks.

Metal skirting came with a lot of issues since it would easily bend, make ground level maintenance somewhat difficult (and even unsafe), and was exposed to the elements. A good alternative - though not as expensive as brick or stone - was wood lattice. This was a good solution as it offered more ventilation than brick, sufficient pest control of rodents, and gave a more uniform appearance. The downside to wood lattice as porch skirting was the maintenance. Left untreated, lattice would deteriorate and repair was near to impossible. Even those panels that had been treated required upkeep with stain or paint.

As timed progressed, wood lattice phased out and the gate opened to vinyl lattice panels. They offered the same benefits as wood - ventilation, pest control, and appearance - yet the maintenance was slim to none. Better yet, vinyl lattice offered better choices when it came to aesthetics.

While the mobile home launched the trend, soon homeowners with open porches and decks were considering vinyl lattice panels as an option. The problem, however, was that there was really no selection.